Long overshadowed by vibrant (yet touristy) Marrakech, Morocco’s capital by the sea, Rabat, is finally enjoying its time in the sun.
With a fabulous food scene, bustling medina, compelling history, and lively beach scene, it makes for an interesting, hassle-free city break.
Where to stay
Dar LalZohra
This lovely riad, with attractive central patio, is found in a peaceful residential street within the medina.
No two rooms are the same, but all are furnished with Moroccan crafts. Its top trump is the pretty rooftop terrace.
For cooler nights, there’s a winter lounge with fireplace. Doubles from £84 including breakfast (darlalzohra.com).
Dar Korsan
Travel expert Kate Wickers gives her expert tips for a budget stay in Morocco’s capital, Rabat, which has long been overshadowed by touristy Marrakech
Kate enjoys the fabulous food scene, bustling medina and intriguing history of this buzzy and diverse city
Location-wise, this 18th-century guesthouse is hard to beat, situated within the car-free narrow lanes of historic Kasbah des Oudaias, with far-reaching views over the Bou Regreg River.
The six white-washed rooms are simply furnished, and spotless. Scattered over several levels, there are plenty of sun-filled terraces. Doubles, including breakfast from £74 (rabatriads.com)
Riad Louane
Expect a colourful immersion in Moroccan arts in this great value riad in the medina. Seven unique bedrooms are located around the light-filled inner patio where breakfast is served by friendly staff.
Relax on the roof with a mint tea, where you’ll find sun loungers and a plunge pool. Doubles from £64, including breakfast (rabatriads.com)
Onomo Hotel
With an impressive Art Deco exterior, the 118-room hotel is located opposite the city’s equally attractive main train station and is surrounded by other gems of the period.
Rooms are modern with Art Deco touches. There’s also a spa, fitness centre and an attractive rooftop bar. Doubles including breakfast from £69 (onomohotels.com)
Kate recommends family-owned Dar El Karam Fatima, with plenty of outside seating and river views – along with well-priced food offerings
Where to eat & drink
Dar El Karam Fatima
Tucked away in a backstreet of the kasbah, expect a warm welcome at this family run café, with plenty of outside seating on a higgle-piggle of rooftop terraces with river views.
For breakfast, a cheese omelette will set you back £2; an orange juice £2.50.
For lunch don’t miss the pastilla – a delicious mix of chicken and almonds in flaky pastry for £5.25. (No website, but it’s legendary so ask a local for directions).
Bleu River Café & Restaurant
With floor to ceiling windows and a vast terrace, views are to the river and the Kasbah.
It’s a great spot for watching the flouka (wooden row boats) crossing between Rabat and the 10th century city of Salé.
Tuck into crepes with banana for £3.50, or a lemon chicken tajine at £8 (bleuriver2024.wixsite.com).
Another spot on Kate’s list is candle-lit Dinarjat, housed in the beautiful inner courtyard of a historic home dating from the late 1800s
Restaurant Dinarjat
Within the medina, candle-lit Dinarjat is housed in the beautiful inner courtyard of a historic home dating from the late 1800s.
What’s on the menu is top notch classic Moroccan cuisine, such as tajine, shish kebabs and Moroccan salads.
What you get for free is live traditional music, played every night. A lamb shish with almonds costs £14 (dinarjat.ma).
Café des Oudayas
Next to a gate into the Andalusian Gardens, take respite from the sun under the pretty pergola and order mint tea and pastries (coconut macaroons and almond gazelle-horn shaped pastries that cost 80p), served by charming Fez hatted waiters.
No website, but easy to find.
Bar Atlantique at Four Seasons Rabat
For something more upmarket, treat yourself to a cocktail at the swankiest address in town: Bar Atlantique, at the Four Seasons Rabat
Easily the swankiest address in town, treat yourself to a sundowner on the terrace as the sun slips into the sea.
With live music and DJs often playing, cocktails are from £15 but come with generous bowls of olives and salted almonds (fourseasons.com).
What to see and do
Wander through the medina
Built on a grid in the 17th century, Rabat’s medina is a hassle-free stroll.
Rue des Consuls is the busiest thoroughfare, lined with small shops selling artisanal goods. Great buys include leather sandals (£7), and hand-woven rugs.
Beyond the traditional stalls, check out the small concept stores of Babshik, housed in the courtyard of a fandiq (ancient inn).
The street food scene near the Marche Central is the place to pick up lunch-on-the-go (try the sardine and fried potato balls for £1.50).
Rabat’s 12-century fortress has a ‘decidedly Greek island’ vibe says Kate, with its ‘white-washed walls, stray cats and flower-filled balconies’
Rock the kasbah
With its white-washed walls, stray cats, and flower-filled balconies, the vibe of this 12th-century fortress, is decidedly Greek island.
What is pure Moroccan, however, is the enormous Bab Oudaia gate, built in 1195.
The Andalusian Gardens are a highlight, filled with lavender bushes, orange trees and trellises dripping with bougainvillea. Free entry.
Enjoy architecture through the ages
Rabat has eclectic architecture from the ruins of the hilltop necropolis Chellah (home to over fifty nesting storks) to Zaha Hadid’s spanking new Grand Theatre de Rabat.
Art Deco reigns in the Ville Nouvelle (don’t miss the Telegraphe Poste building and Hotel Gaulois, with its Moorish embellishment).
Visible over fifty miles away, the 55-storey rocket-shaped Mohammed VI tower will open this year.
While it can only be viewed from the outside, Kate recommends bringing your passport along to the Rabat’s Royal Palace so you can enter and tour the grounds
Visit Royalty
The Royal Palace, built in 1864, can only be viewed from the outside (bring your passport to enter the grounds), and is the principal residence of the king.
The marble Mausoleum of Mohammed V (where the present king’s father and grandfather are laid to rest), is open to the public and is a tribute to the finest Arabic-Islamic art with zellige tiles and exquisitely carved plaster.
On the same site, the iconic Tour Hassan, built in 1195AD, looms large at 44m high. Free entry.
Go to the beach
While sunbathing in a bikini is out of the question due to cultural etiquette, a few hours soaking up Rabat’s lively beach scene is a delight, where locals come to surf, fly kites and picnic.
Sitting on the sands of Main Beach to watch the sun set is a popular way to end the day.
Moroccan jewellery through the ages
Separating Rabat from Sale, the Bouregreg River offers a scenic waterfront ideal for a traditional Moroccan dinner or a sunset stroll
Learn about the history of Moroccan jewellery from regional adornments, including those worn by the Berbers, to a royal collection donated by King Mohammed VI, at the National Jewellery Museum.
It’s tucked into a corner of the Andalusian Gardens, and the building (a 17th century pavilion) is a beauty. Entry £4, free on Sundays.
