On the vast terrace of Peponi Hotel on the Kenyan archipelago of Lamu, I’m tucking into a coconut curry while listening in on an eclectic group of Brits talking about Jeremy Clarkson.
‘I heard he’s coming back again,’ one says, while others point out that the house he rented last time has since been commandeered by a wellknown actor, who first fled to Lamu when his marriage was on the rocks.
A quick Google search reveals that this could well be Dominic West, who spent five weeks here in 2021 hiding from the paparazzi after rumours of his affair with the actress Lily James emerged.
Cheaper than the Caribbean, offering equal hours of winter sun, with frequent, wellpriced flights from the UK to Nairobi, the Lamu archipelago, of which Lamu and Manda islands are most visited, is just a one-hour hop from the Kenyan capital.
The archipelago has been a favourite with A-listers and royalty since the 90s, when Mick Jagger, Jerry Hall and Madonna hung out in the bar at Peponi.
These days it’s Princess Beatrice and her husband Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi who often escape to his father’s holiday home on the outskirts of Shela village.
Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Jude Law, Sting and Sienna Miller have all fallen for Shela’s charms, while party-loving make-up guru Charlotte Tilbury is the latest to move in.
‘They’ve had to ask her to dial the noise down,’ my friend Alex, who has been holidaying regularly on the island for more than 20 years, tells me. ‘This isn’t a party island, her neighbours are insistent that her music goes off by midnight.’
The Lamu archipelago, off Kenya’s coast, is cheaper to visit than the Caribbean and has just as good weather
The unknown destination is frequented by celebrities and royalty, with Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss both fans
Despite its pristine, white-sand beaches, warm turquoise waters and popularity among A-listers, Lamu has managed to remain under the radar.
It was 1997 when I first visited Lamu town, a traditional Swahili settlement – now a Unesco world heritage site – which is known for its coral stone architecture and labyrinth of sandy streets and vibrant markets.
And for anyone seeking a Robinson Crusoe experience, close by is the remote and unspoilt Kizingoni Beach, where stunning sunsets are assured.
TRAVEL FACTS
Double at The Cabanas (full board excluding drinks) from £455 per night (thecabanaslamu.com).
Heathrow to Nairobi returns from £525 (ba.com). Nairobi to Lamu returns from £115 (jambojet.com)
