I’m lying on the beach, Aperol Spritz in one hand, espresso in the other.
The dulcet tones of Italian couples surround me, chain smoking cigarettes as their skin turns a deep shade of brown – while mine, pale and pink-hued, remains firmly underneath the shade of my umbrella.
It’s hot, properly hot, and the sun is beating down as temperatures soar above 30 degrees – and I’m flipping through pages of my novel, enjoying the backdrop of both ocean and mountains.
You’d be forgiven for thinking I’m visiting the likes of the Amalfi coast or Capri – with the Italian delicacies, sandy beaches, hilltops and baking sun so many Brits seek out during the summer months.
But I’m actually in the tiny town of Lascari, on the island of Sicily, an hour’s drive from Palermo – in what feels like the middle of nowhere.
Desperately seeking a holiday getaway without the hordes of tourists and exorbitant prices, my family have decided to experiment with an almost unheard of town in an already quiet and overgrown part of the island.
We don’t speak a word of Italian – and, apparently, no one here speaks much English.
It’s perfect.
Travel writer Erin Waks in the tiny town of Lascari, on the island of Sicily, an hour’s drive from Palermo
You’d be forgiven for thinking I’m visiting the likes of the Amalfi coast or Capri – with the Italian delicacies, sandy beaches, hilltops and baking sun so many Brits seek out during the summer months
The beach at night is a great spot to watch a sunset – or grab a sundowner cocktail
Lascari, a tiny commune located about 50km east of Palermo, has only around 3,600 residents.
In my eight days here, I haven’t met (or even overheard) a single Brit. It’s become abundantly clear this untouched gem is a holiday destination for a select few – only, it seems, regular Sicilians, and some Italians, who pick this as their annual destination spot.
Unlike tourists hotspots, such as Amalfi and Naples, it’s not overrun by international hotels – most of the accommodation here are B&Bs or Airbnbs.
And while it might not have quite as many restaurants and bars as its famous counterparts, what it does have is lots of authentic, home-cooked Italian cuisine, cheap cocktails and deep orange sunsets.
On our first night, we head to La Voce Del Mare, recommended by our Airbnb host.
As we arrive, we’re initially underwhelmed – it seems like any old restaurant.
But as our waiter leads us through to the back garden to our table, we quickly eat humble pie.
Like something out of a Vogue magazine wedding, the fairylight-adorned garden is perfect. And don’t even get me started on the spaghetti aglio olio.
Even coffee is cheap here, starting from €1.50 (£1.30) for a simple espresso
Lascari, a tiny commune located about 50km east of Palermo, has only around 3,600 residents
The sunsets here are unparalleled – making them perfect for an evening glass of wine
By our third dinner at the restaurant, we have mastered the art of ordering the dish – given all eight of us would be eating it.
It’s made all the more enjoyable for its prices – with pizzas from €6 (£5.25), it’s at least half the price of some places I’ve eaten at in busier cities.
We also enjoy Da Piero for pizza – naturally. With plates starting at €6 (£5.25), pizza from €7 (£6.10) and wine from €3 (£2.60) a glass, it certainly won’t break the bank.
A Chiana, the local cocktail bar, is the best place for a sunset drink. More Aperol, please – this is Sicily, after all.
It’s a cocktail bar with a back garden vibe – and with €5 (£4.30) Aperols, €7 (£6.10) Margaritas and Pina Coladas, and an array of small plates from €8 (£7) upwards, it’s much cheaper than such destinations as Amalfi, Naples, Florence and Palermo.
Even coffee is reasonably priced here, starting from €1.50 (£1.30) for a simple espresso.
I will admit, it’s quiet here. If you’re looking for hustle and bustle, it might not be the place for you.
But if you want to do as the Italians do – or, rather, the Sicilians – this is a great spot.
Like something out of a Vogue Magazine wedding, La Voce Del Mare’s fairylight-adorned garden is perfect
The restaurant’s spaghetti aglio olio is by far our favourite dish – deceptively simple
And if you’re looking for a cultural fix, there are plenty of options nearby – the town’s tiny train station will link you to the important cities and towns such as Palermo and Cefalu.
I’d advise avoiding the island’s overcrowded tourist towns – such as Taormina – but Cefalu is great. A word of warning: the sea is magnificent but the beach brings a new meaning to the word ‘overcrowded’.
If you want to soak up some rays with an atmosphere of calm, though, stick to the beaches in and around Lascari – Spaggia Salinelle and Spaggia Gorgo Lungo.
But Cefalu’s old town is truly beautiful, a perfect European town filled with great restaurants, shops and historical sights.
No trip to Sicily would be complete without granita, the island’s take on gelato.
Do like the Sicilians do – and pair it with a brioche. Deliziosa.
