‘Somewhere within the dingy casing lay the ancient city. Like a notorious jewel, too stared at, talked of, and trafficked over,’ wrote Graham Greene of Bruges.
And it’s true that this city, blessed with such wonderful medieval architecture, can be ‘too stared at’ during peak summer months.
Better to go in spring or autumn, once the tour buses have thinned.
Whenever you go, however, if you wander to the outskirts of the historic centre, there are plenty of blissfully quiet places.
One of the best of these is the Beguinage, a cluster of 13th-century alms-houses for women who have dedicated their lives to God, set in pretty gardens.
Laced with canals, Bruges’ centre is compact, easy to walk round, and a joy to explore, especially early or late in the day.
Visit the Church of Our Lady just before closing and you may well have Michelangelo’s sculpture Madonna and Child all to yourself.
Meanwhile, also keeping Bruges authentic, are a growing number of independent shops from artisan chocolatiers to little waffle houses and jewellers.
Kate Wickers visits the Belgian city of Bruges, and discovers the best accommodation options in this pretty city – whether you’re on a budget, or want to splash the cash
Among other popular Bruges sights, Kate recommends visiting Beguinage, a cluster of 13th-century alms-houses for women who have dedicated their lives to God
Kate also suggests visiting the Church of our Lady just before closing time at 5pm, to avoid the crowds
FOR… £348 A NIGHT
On arguably the most beautiful canal-side terrace in Bruges, family-owned Hotel Van Cleef enjoys a quiet corner of the Sint-Anna district, a ten-minute stroll from Markt (main square).
The house history goes back to the Van Cleef family, relatives of Henry VIII’s fourth wife, Anne of Cleves.
Most of what stands today is 18th century, and throughout there’s a sense of old-word grandeur, pepped up with eye-catching contemporary artworks.
In the 16 rooms, expect marble bathrooms with hot-tub baths and luxe Missoni and Hermes furnishings.
The continental breakfast is waiter-served in the Green Room beneath crystal chandeliers or on the terrace.
There’s no restaurant but afternoon tea is available.
The concierge can arrange chocolate-making classes, carriage rides and boat tours.
Family-owned Hotel Van Cleef enjoys a quiet corner of the Sint-Anna district, a ten-minute stroll from Markt
The house history goes back to the Van Cleef family, relatives of Henry VIII’s fourth wife, Anne of Cleves
OR… £125 A NIGHT
The city’s oldest hotel, Boutique Hotel Sablon is on a quiet street off the busy shopping throughfare of Noordzandstraat.
Its facade dates from the 16th century, but there’s nothing antique about the recently-restored interior, which is fresh, fun and full of modern art.
The bohemian style continues in 43 rooms including nine suites, of which The Loft is the city’s largest at 84 sq m.
Colour schemes are in moody inky blue, with oversized leather headboards and designer furnishings. Ask for a room at the front for views to gabled houses.
Local cheeses star on the generous breakfast buffet – try the creamy Bruges Blomme. Excellent classic Belgian waffles, too.
