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Home » I spent nine months travelling Sri Lanka by bus – there’s a must-visit spot that Lonely Planet says to avoid
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I spent nine months travelling Sri Lanka by bus – there’s a must-visit spot that Lonely Planet says to avoid

By staffAugust 23, 20258 Mins Read
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I spent nine months travelling Sri Lanka by bus – there’s a must-visit spot that Lonely Planet says to avoid
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As one of the most beautiful countries in the world, Sri Lanka really does have it all. 

The island’s rich and layered history can be explored at mesmerising ancient archaeological sites, such as Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa, and Anuradhapura, while wild leopards, sloth bears, and Asian elephants roam the tropical jungles of over 20 National Parks. 

If you’re lucky, it’s possible to spot a leopard and a blue whale in a single day during the peak migration season. 

But that’s not all.

Surfers will adore the reef breaks of the south and east coasts, hikers have numerous trails to explore – including the epic 300km Pekoe Trail that snakes through lush tea estates – and train buffs can take the scenic ride of a lifetime. 

Of course, a well-worn tourist route takes in many of these hypnotic places, yet for travellers hankering after the less-visited side of the country, there’s so much more to explore, ensuring Sri Lanka can be visited time and time again. 

And I did it all travelling by local bus for over nine months.

These are the lesser-visited parts I discovered, and worth heading to for wondrous sights, away from the crowds. 

Lydia Swinscoe (pictured) reveals the lesser-visited parts of Sri Lanka she discovered, which are worth heading to for wondrous sights, away from the crowds

She travelled across Sri Lanka for nine months by bus (pictured)

She travelled across Sri Lanka for nine months by bus (pictured)

Elusive leopards are just one of the animals that can be found in glorious Wilpattu National Park

Elusive leopards are just one of the animals that can be found in glorious Wilpattu National Park

Wilpattu National Park 

Crested serpent eagles, jackals, elusive leopards, jungle fowl, stocky sloth bears, and photogenic white breasted kingfishers are just a few of the birds and animals that can be found in glorious Wilpattu National Park. 

While most tourists head to Yala, Wilpattu is, in fact, the largest National Park in Sri Lanka, yet it sees fewer visitors than its over-touristed counterpart. 

Even fewer tourists know about the government-run bungalows that dot most of Sri Lanka’s National Parks, and to witness a jungle experience with a difference, it’s worth spending a few nights completely immersed in Wilpattu’s dense jungle. 

Soulful Sri Lanka will take the stress out of arranging this one-of-a-kind excursion by arranging all transport, the bungalow bookings, safari jeep arrangements, and will also provide a cook and tracker to help spot those elusive leopards and bears. 

Maligawila Buddha Statue, Monaragala 

According to a 15-year-old Lonely Planet guidebook of Sri Lanka, the town of Monaragala is ‘not up to much, do pass through it,’ but it’s sentences like those that make me want to visit even more. 

After a couple of weeks in the county, I stopped over in Monaragala for the night in order to witness one of the most exquisite Buddha sculptures in the entire country. 

I stopped over in Monaragala for the night in order to witness one of the most exquisite Buddha sculptures in the entire country, the Maligawila Buddha Statue (pictured)

I stopped over in Monaragala for the night in order to witness one of the most exquisite Buddha sculptures in the entire country, the Maligawila Buddha Statue (pictured)

Made of crystalline limestone, I was the only person visiting the 11-metre-tall freestanding Buddha sculpture, hidden in the monkey-filled jungle just 15 km out of town. 

Dating back to the 7th century, it’s impossible not to be impressed by the size and detail of the statue that was once the tallest free-standing Buddha in the world.

Colombo 

As the capital of the country, Colombo might seem a surprising addition, but many travellers skip this underrated city, which, in my opinion, is an error. 

Overflowing with exciting art spaces, museums, and galleries, as well as boasting some of the best bars and restaurants in the country, Colombo will impress anyone willing to spend time getting acquainted with its quirks. 

Highlights for me include the restaurants, Gini and Shoulders by Harpos. Uncle’s and Eskobar for top-class cocktails, and the Sapumal Foundation and National Museum for an informative dose of historical context. 

There’s also an incredible array of small boutique hotels housed in gorgeous, well-designed mansions. 

Don’t miss Maniumpathy and ISHQ.

As the capital of the country, Colombo might seem a surprising addition, but many travellers skip this underrated city, which, in my opinion, is an error

As the capital of the country, Colombo might seem a surprising addition, but many travellers skip this underrated city, which, in my opinion, is an error

Photogenic at every turn, and with no other travellers in sight, Mannar Island is deserving of a spot on every Sri Lanka itinerary

Photogenic at every turn, and with no other travellers in sight, Mannar Island is deserving of a spot on every Sri Lanka itinerary

Mannar Island 

Just 30 km from mainland India, Mannar Island juts out from Sri Lanka’s teardrop shape like a true enigma. 

Here, I found the country’s oldest baobab tree (700 years old, with a circumference of 19.5 meters), an abandoned Dutch Fort, plenty of wild roaming donkeys, and a picturesque pastel blue church built in the 1860s. 

Photogenic at every turn, and with no other travellers in sight, this gem of an island is deserving of a spot on every Sri Lanka itinerary. 

Kelaniya Raja Maha Viharaya, Kelaniya 

There is no shortage of awe-inspiring temples in Sri Lanka, from the incredible cave temples of Dambulla, to the colour-pop Nallur Kandaswamy Devasthanam Hindu Temple of Jaffna – they all really do deserve a visit. 

Yet one of my favourites, and a place that rarely gets a spot on many a Sri Lankan itinerary, is Kelania Temple, 11 km northeast of Colombo. 

Temple artist, Walimuni Solias Mendis, dedicated 20 years of his life to the murals and intricate paintings within the temple’s main structure, and it really is a marvel to witness firsthand. 

One of my favourite temples, and a place that rarely gets a spot on many a Sri Lankan itinerary, is Kelania Temple, 11 km northeast of Colombo

One of my favourite temples, and a place that rarely gets a spot on many a Sri Lankan itinerary, is Kelania Temple, 11 km northeast of Colombo

Pictured: Inside the Kelania Temple

Pictured: Inside the Kelania Temple

There are still a handful of charming villages where it¿s possible to escape most of the crowds, one of which is Madiha

There are still a handful of charming villages where it’s possible to escape most of the crowds, one of which is Madiha

Be sure to visit at varying times of day, as the light on the bright white stupa at dusk is pure magic. 

Madiha Village, Matara District 

Sri Lanka’s south coast is undeniably touristy in high season (December to March), with towns like Mirissa and Unawatuna now filled with souvenir shops and the odd chain store. 

But there are still a handful of charming villages where it’s possible to escape most of the crowds, one of which is Madiha. 

Nestled amongst coconut and mango trees and close to little-visited temples, this minuscule village has a handful of accommodation options, a few open-air cafes, and is right next to the beach. 

And a short beachside stroll away is one of the island’s best restaurants, Zephyr Ceylon, where fresh fish dishes and inventive cocktails make the best of Sri Lanka’s colourful produce.

Sinharaja Forest Reserve 

This UNESCO World Heritage site is home to medicinal plants, purple-faced langurs, mouse deer, and a staggering array of birds, yet its name, Sinharaja, roughly translates to ‘lion kingdom’. 

UNESCO World Heritage site, Sinharaja Forest Reserve is home to medicinal plants, purple-faced langurs, mouse deer, and a staggering array of birds

UNESCO World Heritage site, Sinharaja Forest Reserve is home to medicinal plants, purple-faced langurs, mouse deer, and a staggering array of birds

While there are no wild lions in Sri Lanka today, a folk legend tells of a lion living in the forest, which is how it became known as Sinharaja. 

Shrouded in myth and swirled in low-hanging mist, the forest is little frequented by tourists, possibly on account of its nearly year-round rainfall. 

But those willing to venture a little deeper will be rewarded with the chance to spot all 20 of Sri Lanka’s endemic rainforest birds, including the rare green-billed coucal and the bright blue Ceylon magpie. 

Matara

As the capital of the south coast’s Matara district, which was once ruled over by the Dutch, Portuguese, and British, this is a vibrant and bustling city.

It boasts two quaint forts including one built in 1560 and the other forming the shape of a star, a Buddhist island temple, a handful of fab rice and curry spots, and an interesting Dutch Reformed Church. 

Few tourists get immersed in the place, yet it offers a real glimpse into daily Sri Lankan life. 

What’s more, the very southernmost tip of the country is just a 15-minute drive away, marked out by a bright white lighthouse that’s one of the oldest in the country.

As the capital of the south coast¿s Matara district, which was once ruled over by the Dutch, Portuguese, and British, Matara is a vibrant and bustling city

As the capital of the south coast’s Matara district, which was once ruled over by the Dutch, Portuguese, and British, Matara is a vibrant and bustling city

The country¿s northernmost region - and out of bounds for decades due to the civil war - Jaffna is one of my favourite areas for temples and incredible food.

The country’s northernmost region – and out of bounds for decades due to the civil war – Jaffna is one of my favourite areas for temples and incredible food.

Jaffna

The country’s northernmost region, out of bounds for decades due to the civil war, is one of my favourite areas for temples and incredible food.

It offers a completely different terrain and vibe from the rest of the country. 

Home to hundreds of dusky-pink flamingos, spicy crab curries, and little-visited sights, including a sunken church half buried in sand, it’s easy to let the days roll by in Jaffna. 

But since it’s far, far away from much of the rest of the country, the palmyrah-filled expanse sees far fewer visitors than the island’s hotspots of Ella, Nuwara Eliya, and the surfer’s paradise of Weligama. 

Demodora 

While many flock to Ella, a once sleepy enclave turned backpacker haven, I wasn’t the biggest fan.

Instead, I preferred to spend my days in Demodora, where whimsical trails through tea plantations span out in all directions. 

The country¿s famed Nine Arch Bridge is a rough 4 km hike away from Demodora, through quaint villages

The country’s famed Nine Arch Bridge is a rough 4 km hike away from Demodora, through quaint villages

The country’s famed Nine Arch Bridge is a rough 4 km hike away through quaint villages.

Meanwhile, the Demodora railway station looks as if it’s been plucked straight out of a fairytale book. 

Close by sits a unique spiral railway loop where the track passes under itself. 

Known as the Demodora Loop, it’s easy to visit from nearby Nine Skies, a five-bedroomed bungalow with the dreamiest views.

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